I was up all night listening to the wind through the thin walls of our tent. In the morning, we (and all of our stuff) was covered in sand from being continuously pelted by it all night long. Dates and leaves were falling from the palm tress that surrounded us and a few times, I worried that a whole tree might come tumbling down.
With such an intense wind storm blowing through, we're forced to spend another day in San Ignacio. The owner of the campground where we're staying swears that it isn't going to rain. "puro aire, puro aire," he says. Just air. Well, sir, methinks all this air might blow that thatch roof off your restaurant! But when we offer to help him pin stuff down, he just says, "oh, no problema" and laughs as chairs from his patio go whizzing away.
So we're spending the day in search of walls to sit between and watching the sand blow by, dressed in all the warm stuff we've got. Just another beautiful day in Mexico!
Christine
Thursday, November 30, 2006
Tuesday, November 28, 2006
the oasis
140 kms later, we were supposed to already be in San Ignacio by our figuring. But as we crested yet another hill, there wasn`t a town to be seen and we could see for miles and miles, all the way to the base of the mountains further east. The landscape was beautiful, red rocky hills dotted with green cactus but it wasn`t what we were looking for.
We continued on a little further, wondering how we had managed to get lost in a land with only one road, and then we saw it. Not buildings or cars...palm trees. Millions of them, filling an entire valley and hiding the small oasis town of San Ignacio. As we approached, we could feel the air become more still and thick and you could smell the vegetation. The road made a final dip and suddenly we were under a palms and surrounded by lush green - the oasis!
We spent the evening exploring the 18th century mission and sampling the tacos on offer around the main square. And we like it so well, we`re going to spend the day here tomorrow. Quite a refreshing change after 600kms of cactus!
Christine
We continued on a little further, wondering how we had managed to get lost in a land with only one road, and then we saw it. Not buildings or cars...palm trees. Millions of them, filling an entire valley and hiding the small oasis town of San Ignacio. As we approached, we could feel the air become more still and thick and you could smell the vegetation. The road made a final dip and suddenly we were under a palms and surrounded by lush green - the oasis!
We spent the evening exploring the 18th century mission and sampling the tacos on offer around the main square. And we like it so well, we`re going to spend the day here tomorrow. Quite a refreshing change after 600kms of cactus!
Christine
Monday, November 27, 2006
been through the desert on a bike with no name
Well, contrary to my prior belief, the Baja is not just a 1500km long beach. Unless, of course, water isn´t essential to your definition of beach. Because there is certainly a lot of sand. And cacti.
We were a little nervous setting off into the desert with 4 days worth of food and a day and a half´s worth of water. Not least because the day before (sit down, moms), we were pulled over by a very concerned mexican cop who told us that women can´t survive in the desert. Women specifically, since he was responding to my argument that loads of people bike the baja each year.
When our heart rates had finally settled back to normal (it´s quite a rush to be pulled over by mexican federalis with flashing lights and a loudspeaker blaring at you from the roof of their car), we started the long, twisty road up onto the desert plateau. And up and up and up it went, and even though it was our biggest elevation gain so far, it was also our longest distance day since we were pushing for a tiny little dot on the map where we knew we could find a place to camp and fill our water jugs.
The desert landscape was fascinating, especially once we got up on top of the plateau. You could see for miles in all directions, nothing but sand and cactus split by a narrow ribbon of pavement that seemed so out of place in a land where it really seemed like no one should ever have cause to go. Every time we went up over a little knoll into another valley, we were amazed to see another 20 or so kilometers of nothingness. Wow. But in a very beautiful and not at all boring way.
And all the vast nothingness brought with it some practical problems. Like where to use the bathroom, for example. Obviously there were no toilets or outhouses. There were also no trees or bushes or anything, really, to hide behind. So relieving ourselves was really a matter of just hanging it out there and crossing our fingers that a caravan wouldn´t come along. Weee!
Christine
We were a little nervous setting off into the desert with 4 days worth of food and a day and a half´s worth of water. Not least because the day before (sit down, moms), we were pulled over by a very concerned mexican cop who told us that women can´t survive in the desert. Women specifically, since he was responding to my argument that loads of people bike the baja each year.
When our heart rates had finally settled back to normal (it´s quite a rush to be pulled over by mexican federalis with flashing lights and a loudspeaker blaring at you from the roof of their car), we started the long, twisty road up onto the desert plateau. And up and up and up it went, and even though it was our biggest elevation gain so far, it was also our longest distance day since we were pushing for a tiny little dot on the map where we knew we could find a place to camp and fill our water jugs.
The desert landscape was fascinating, especially once we got up on top of the plateau. You could see for miles in all directions, nothing but sand and cactus split by a narrow ribbon of pavement that seemed so out of place in a land where it really seemed like no one should ever have cause to go. Every time we went up over a little knoll into another valley, we were amazed to see another 20 or so kilometers of nothingness. Wow. But in a very beautiful and not at all boring way.
And all the vast nothingness brought with it some practical problems. Like where to use the bathroom, for example. Obviously there were no toilets or outhouses. There were also no trees or bushes or anything, really, to hide behind. So relieving ourselves was really a matter of just hanging it out there and crossing our fingers that a caravan wouldn´t come along. Weee!
Christine
There´s always something going on in the desert...
-just like the Snoopy comic said! We took a day off in Cataviña, expecting that it would be really quiet and we would be forced to relax... the morning was just that. We slept in, read our books and did our laundry in stuff sacs.
At lunch we walked down to the little convience store for some snacks and were greeted by the crazy Korean, Henrey. He and his buddies had been down in the Baja for a boys trip and were on their way home to California. When he heard that we were cycling and how far we´d travelled, he insisted that we take a bag of chocolate bars and candy. mmm!! He then cooked us a korean meal while we sat in their camp chairs and drank beer. They also gave us several packages of noodles and offered us their microwave before they headed on down the road. :P
We were later out on a photo safari and attempting to find a phone when we met the ¨dirt bike guys¨from northern california. These guys are on an annual dirt bike trip that takes them all over the backroads/trails of the Baja. They claimed that we looked clean, but were incredibly generous and offered their hotel room showers to us. Alright!!
On our walk back to our campsite to get our shower stuff we met Elvis, yup this man has an incredible life story! He is actually not sure of his real name, but he did invent the hoolahoop, frisbee, mars bar, and training wheels; and all before he was ten years old! He owns over 20mil in strawberry fields down here but just has to find it... as we walked away from this man Christine confessed that this is the closest she´s ever been to calling Bullshit on a complete stranger!
... the showers were SO nice! We then hung out with the guys for a couple of beers and they treated us to a delicous dinner at the hotel (instead of whatever one pot wonder we were going to attempt back at camp). We had a wonderful time sharing stories and laughs - Thanks guys!
So all in all, our rest day in the desert turned into yet another adventure. You never know who you´ll meet or what you might learn...
-Jodie
At lunch we walked down to the little convience store for some snacks and were greeted by the crazy Korean, Henrey. He and his buddies had been down in the Baja for a boys trip and were on their way home to California. When he heard that we were cycling and how far we´d travelled, he insisted that we take a bag of chocolate bars and candy. mmm!! He then cooked us a korean meal while we sat in their camp chairs and drank beer. They also gave us several packages of noodles and offered us their microwave before they headed on down the road. :P
We were later out on a photo safari and attempting to find a phone when we met the ¨dirt bike guys¨from northern california. These guys are on an annual dirt bike trip that takes them all over the backroads/trails of the Baja. They claimed that we looked clean, but were incredibly generous and offered their hotel room showers to us. Alright!!
On our walk back to our campsite to get our shower stuff we met Elvis, yup this man has an incredible life story! He is actually not sure of his real name, but he did invent the hoolahoop, frisbee, mars bar, and training wheels; and all before he was ten years old! He owns over 20mil in strawberry fields down here but just has to find it... as we walked away from this man Christine confessed that this is the closest she´s ever been to calling Bullshit on a complete stranger!
... the showers were SO nice! We then hung out with the guys for a couple of beers and they treated us to a delicous dinner at the hotel (instead of whatever one pot wonder we were going to attempt back at camp). We had a wonderful time sharing stories and laughs - Thanks guys!
So all in all, our rest day in the desert turned into yet another adventure. You never know who you´ll meet or what you might learn...
-Jodie
Thursday, November 23, 2006
Adieu of the third amiga
Well girls, I'm listening to Carsie Blanton at my home computer, slow connection as it is. I will validate that there is snow up here, and tomorrow's temp with wind chill is -39C. Brrrr. I guess I'll take my run indoors:) I am proud to say that I covered 1300 km in two days- not bad hey? My bum is sore in different ways now. I think it will take more than a drive up the province to digest the last forty days. It is made up of highs and lows, irrational hours and mutually enjoyed meals/ bike interludes. I will miss taking in the sights with you*. Here's some sights I will share with you. Of driving east through the Chilliwack valley, the sun bursting out of darkly layered cumulous clouds and touching snowy peaks over Hope. A low sun, in San Diego it'd be a half hour before dark, but in Ashcroft the sun will hang for three more hours in its slow westward course; painting the fallow hills in a pale yellow light as we wind into Clinton. Street lights of Prince George piercing the sky vertically, reflecting off snow crystals in the air. Snow rounded and pillowy, untracked along the Pine Pass summit...This one will get you Jodie:) So I bid you enjoy the journey, the constant nourishment, the friends along the way, fun camping and best breakfasts ever, the sunshine on your legs, the dear calls home, and each other. love Wendy
Mucho Frio!!!
This is what our new friend Hilda told us last night would be like if we slept in our tent outside... so she invited us back to stay at her father´s house in the spare rooms that he normally rents out. Hilda works in a taco stand beside the free RV site that we were planning to stay at. She was very curious when the two ´white girls´rode in, so she quickly came over for a little chat. She waited for us to have a delicous dinner and then led us along a few sandy streets to the house.
We were greeted by her sister, father, and two children when we arrived. Christine carried the conversation and answered all of their questions in Spanish while I did my best to figure out what they were talking about. I found myself making faces and laughing with the kids because they seemed to be easier to understand. I ended up asking to take pictures with them and we had so much fun!! They loved the digital camera and were so excited to pose and act infront of it! We got their address so we will hopefully send them some of the photos when we get home.
Our rooms were simple and tidy and we even had our own toilet! The sleep was indeed warmer than outside would have been and we were very grateful for the hospitality!
Jodie
We were greeted by her sister, father, and two children when we arrived. Christine carried the conversation and answered all of their questions in Spanish while I did my best to figure out what they were talking about. I found myself making faces and laughing with the kids because they seemed to be easier to understand. I ended up asking to take pictures with them and we had so much fun!! They loved the digital camera and were so excited to pose and act infront of it! We got their address so we will hopefully send them some of the photos when we get home.
Our rooms were simple and tidy and we even had our own toilet! The sleep was indeed warmer than outside would have been and we were very grateful for the hospitality!
Jodie
A whole new world
As soon as we crossed the border, we were amazing by how things can change so much in just a few kilometers. Everything just seems slightly chaotic in Mexico and our senses are constantly overloaded with new images, smells and sounds. Result being that after our first day of riding south of the border, we were more mentally exhausted than physically.
The main differences?
Well, the roads are every bit as narrow and shoulderless and we´ve been warned about. But don´t worry, Moms - the drivers have been very courteous so far and give us space when they pass. Not a ton of space, but enough, and we know that they are more accustomed to these narrow roads than we are. In the busiest places, we have found shoulders, but they´re about 4 inches lower than the main road, which makes for some exciting hops up and down as we dodge obstacles.
The main obstacles we dodge, aside from potholes big enough to swallow us whole, are dead dogs. There are hundreds of them and in the dry heat, they smell terrible and the smell lingers for several hundred meters.
People´s responses to us are very different here, too. We get honks/waves/yells from over half of the people who see us. The majority are fun, with only a few creepy catcalls per day. The truckers and bus drivers are especially exuberant, and they like to honk little tunes or use their alarms to make fun whistle noises at us.
All in all, our first few days in Mexico have been an exciting change from riding through the US and we´re looking forward to moving even further south, sampling tacos and ice cream bars along the entire length of the baja!
-Christine
The main differences?
Well, the roads are every bit as narrow and shoulderless and we´ve been warned about. But don´t worry, Moms - the drivers have been very courteous so far and give us space when they pass. Not a ton of space, but enough, and we know that they are more accustomed to these narrow roads than we are. In the busiest places, we have found shoulders, but they´re about 4 inches lower than the main road, which makes for some exciting hops up and down as we dodge obstacles.
The main obstacles we dodge, aside from potholes big enough to swallow us whole, are dead dogs. There are hundreds of them and in the dry heat, they smell terrible and the smell lingers for several hundred meters.
People´s responses to us are very different here, too. We get honks/waves/yells from over half of the people who see us. The majority are fun, with only a few creepy catcalls per day. The truckers and bus drivers are especially exuberant, and they like to honk little tunes or use their alarms to make fun whistle noises at us.
All in all, our first few days in Mexico have been an exciting change from riding through the US and we´re looking forward to moving even further south, sampling tacos and ice cream bars along the entire length of the baja!
-Christine
Sunday, November 19, 2006
I do.....NOT!
Two days and two marriage proposals! This bike trip must be doing more for me that I thought :)
The first was from a german staying at our hostel in San Diego who sat down to dinner with us on our first night in town. He was asking all about Canadian cities and trying to compare them to US cities when we discovered our shared love of sidewalk hot dog vendors. He was so pumped to find a girl that could happily live on all-beefs that he wanted to marry me! Tee Hee!
The second was from a Mexican restaurant host who I think found me freakishly tall, but couldn't believe that a woman existed who wouldn't jump at the offer of a free margarita. "What? You no like margaritas? You must be my wife!" And both other times that we passed him that day, he'd run over calling, "Oh, my fiance! my fiance!" Jodie was kind enough to insist on taking my picture with my newest beau. Tee Hee again!
With all of the attention that we seem to attract from mexican men, I figure we need to start a tally of how many marriage proposals we rack up over the next few weeks. The three pasty white girls seemed quite popular in Tijuana the other day, getting cat calls and pick-up lines from all sides. Some of our favorites:
"Hey! Charlie's Angels!"
"Are you from Baywatch?" (I think they were talking to Jodie)
"Hey! The three musketeers!" (slightly less flattering)
"I've got a big enchilada!" (and suddenly i'm not hungry anymore)
And that's all on day one!
~Christine
The first was from a german staying at our hostel in San Diego who sat down to dinner with us on our first night in town. He was asking all about Canadian cities and trying to compare them to US cities when we discovered our shared love of sidewalk hot dog vendors. He was so pumped to find a girl that could happily live on all-beefs that he wanted to marry me! Tee Hee!
The second was from a Mexican restaurant host who I think found me freakishly tall, but couldn't believe that a woman existed who wouldn't jump at the offer of a free margarita. "What? You no like margaritas? You must be my wife!" And both other times that we passed him that day, he'd run over calling, "Oh, my fiance! my fiance!" Jodie was kind enough to insist on taking my picture with my newest beau. Tee Hee again!
With all of the attention that we seem to attract from mexican men, I figure we need to start a tally of how many marriage proposals we rack up over the next few weeks. The three pasty white girls seemed quite popular in Tijuana the other day, getting cat calls and pick-up lines from all sides. Some of our favorites:
"Hey! Charlie's Angels!"
"Are you from Baywatch?" (I think they were talking to Jodie)
"Hey! The three musketeers!" (slightly less flattering)
"I've got a big enchilada!" (and suddenly i'm not hungry anymore)
And that's all on day one!
~Christine
Mexican Zebras
Dad, you're not going to believe this!! There are zebras all over the streets in Tijuana... or so we thought until we looked a little closer. :) They have painted, yes painted, donkeys with black stripes and have them hitched to wagons for photos. You can borrow sombreros and sit in the wagon with the poor donkey standing patiently in the street. We didn't get any pictures of them because it would have cost at least five bucks, but we definitely got a good laugh out of the sight!
~Jodie
~Jodie
MEXICO!
2,667 kms later, we made it to Mexico! We did our final sprint to the border yesterday morning from downtown San Diego to celebrate in Tijuana with margaritas and tacos. Yippee!
Saturday, November 18, 2006
Enter San Diego
Wow, what a difference a day or two can make on biking energy. We were all sitting high in the seat yesterday as we tackled the 67 miles from San Clemente to San Diego. This was my most enjoyable bike day yet, yes, even better than the rainy day to Fairfax. The road lay out flat before us, our route led us down freeway frontage roads and bike trails wide and untravelled. Twice our bike path opened out wide enough to be an easy runway for the Twin Otter. We cycled through Camp Pembleton military training site, with excercises in progress and everywhere, cammouflage. Then by the beach towns of San Diego county. Seven hours of carefree riding with nice visiting between traffic makes for a bright day. -Wendy
Thursday, November 16, 2006
Hollywood!
Hype schmipe, I say! I'm not about to leave LA without a little taste of Hollywood. So, Jodie and I headed to Universal Studios for our day of not-so-rest. We mingled with stars (donkey and sponge-bob), acted for the camera-man (we weren't actually scared on the roller-coaster, just acting!), and dined in style (with our all-you-can-eat hot dog and pizza bracelets)! And when the day was over and they finally kicked us off the roller coaster (after 5 rides), we headed to the 'real' hollywood for a walk among the bright city lights. All in all, an action-packed day, though we may actually be more tired now than before our rest day!
~Christine
~Christine
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Malibu has Lac la Hache beat for the longest city, stretching its ginormous houses along 25 miles of coast and highway. Welcome to southern California, where a modest beach front house is selling for 3 million. I've been stared out of clothing stores on Santa Monica Main street, and through Starbucks line-ups in Malibu. I'm a different breed, and looking forward to being among my own herd *sigh*. I shopped REI instead of crossing the threshhold of Universal Studios and all the hype it represents. Speaking of hype, two hyper girls left for Hollywood streets this morning. Wonder Who they saw. I worked on the back of my legs tan, which is severely paler than the front. The beach, two blocks from the motel, stretches to the smoggy horizon both ways. Reporting from Santa Monica, Wendy
Saturday, November 11, 2006
Big Sur and the happiest day ever!
From the minute we left Carmel and started to wind our way upwards along the coast and into the region known as big sur, I had a huge grin on my face that didn't fade until we cruised back down towards flat land 75 miles later.
I had heard of the Big Sur before and knew that it was beautiful and a must-see along the California coast. We'd also heard that the road was narrow, steep, windy and without shoulders - exactly my kind of ride! But no one who described it prepared me for it. Maybe that's because it just defies description.
For 75 miles, the road is etched into mountainsides overlooking the most intensley colorful sea waters that you could image that smash violently against the craggy shoreline.
Even though it was the hilliest and windiest road we've seen yet, the entire thing felt easy. It must have been the magic of the big sur.
~Christine
I had heard of the Big Sur before and knew that it was beautiful and a must-see along the California coast. We'd also heard that the road was narrow, steep, windy and without shoulders - exactly my kind of ride! But no one who described it prepared me for it. Maybe that's because it just defies description.
For 75 miles, the road is etched into mountainsides overlooking the most intensley colorful sea waters that you could image that smash violently against the craggy shoreline.
Even though it was the hilliest and windiest road we've seen yet, the entire thing felt easy. It must have been the magic of the big sur.
~Christine
bienvenido a Mexico!
Ok, we're not really there yet, but we got our first taste of the road to come this afternoon in Guadalupe. This little town of 6,000 is overwhelmingly mexican. All of the stores and restaurants have signs only in Spanish and they serve up a mean (and authentic) burrito. Jodie and Wendy even got a chance to practice some of the spanish that they've been learning on the road with the very friendly owners who only spoke a bit of english. I also had a good chat with them about our trip and their hometown in Mexico and it was the first spanish I've spoken in a while. After lunch, we explored a few of the small groceries in town that serve up a whole bunch of mexican treats and we all rode out of town feeling quite giddy about being so close to the border and the next stage of our trip. Hasta Mexico!!
~Christine
~Christine
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
jodie and the yellow-light curse
Riding through the urban areas of California is very frustrating. Bikes aren't allowed on the freeways and alternate routes are long, confusing and poorly marked. But that's not the only frustration for Jodie, who seems to have put under the yellow-light curse. At every intersection, Wendy and I sqeak through while the light is still green and Jodie (right behind us), powers through somewhere between yellow and red, afraid of being left behind if she stops. Of the 20 or so stop lights we crossed today, this must have happened at at least 15 of them!
~Christine
~Christine
Sharing a joke with a stranger
Had my laugh of the day between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz. I was just making a point about how surfer guys gain some attraction points by just being surfers. To illustrate my point I jovially enacted how I would greet the next Californian guy, "Hellooo, do you surf?", all this half yelling as we girls rode rode side by side on the shoulder. Just then a biker passes us on the left, perhaps biking from that last surfing pullout 2 miles back, and gives us this knowing grin. He totally heard me- how far back he'd been in on my argument I don't know. I dropped my head in shame as he cruised on to SC as the girls hooted at my timing. Wish I could've caught up to him...-Wendy
Sunday, November 05, 2006
i left my heart in san fransisco
What an amazing city! And what a perfect 48ish hours we have spent here!
Riding into the city, after crossing the spectacular Golden Gate Bridge (quite a milestone on our little adventure), I was instantly impressed by the architecture. Every house (mostly 3-story row houses) was colorful and unique and yet they all complimented each other perfectly. The way they rise up on the steep hillsides in layers is so impressive that I can't imagine a more beautiful city.
We settled into our hostel, got ourselves fed and washed and set out to explore. We hit a few of the essential areas on our first night and the next morning - little Italy, North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf.
They were interesting, but the real fun began on Saturday afternoon when we hooked up with Annie and Nick. We headed to Haight and Ashbury, the heart of San Fransisco in the 60s and 70s, and still the funkiest part of town. We spent the afternoon eating crepes, shopping in crazy thrift shops, browsing bookshops, and getting Annie's nose peirced (yay!). We ate Burmese for dinner - an amazing feast! - and then met up with Kitty, Joe and Justin and headed to the pub, where things got even more interesting. Like good canadians, we kept the beer flowing all night long until all 7 of us were sitting under our table (try it sometime - it's an interesting perspective), sharing jokes and stories like we were all old friends.
Nick drove us home at 2:30, via the word's crookedest street (Weeeeeee!) and his apartment where we climbed up to the roof for an awesome view of the city and the full moon.
Our whole gang of San Fran friends were just amazing people - the kind you feel like you've known forever when you've only just met them - and they made our time in the city a thousand times more exciting than it could have been with out them. Hats off to all you backroaders - you rock!
Today, Jodie and I woke up early (despite our late night) and tackled the city one last time. We were on a mission - taking in the famer's market, shopping for funky jewelry and clothes on Haight, and watching Chicago (the musical). We're exhausted tonight, but it was well worth it. We'll ride out of the city tomorrow, but we won't be saying goodbye for ever. This place is definitely worth another trip!
~Christine
Riding into the city, after crossing the spectacular Golden Gate Bridge (quite a milestone on our little adventure), I was instantly impressed by the architecture. Every house (mostly 3-story row houses) was colorful and unique and yet they all complimented each other perfectly. The way they rise up on the steep hillsides in layers is so impressive that I can't imagine a more beautiful city.
We settled into our hostel, got ourselves fed and washed and set out to explore. We hit a few of the essential areas on our first night and the next morning - little Italy, North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf.
They were interesting, but the real fun began on Saturday afternoon when we hooked up with Annie and Nick. We headed to Haight and Ashbury, the heart of San Fransisco in the 60s and 70s, and still the funkiest part of town. We spent the afternoon eating crepes, shopping in crazy thrift shops, browsing bookshops, and getting Annie's nose peirced (yay!). We ate Burmese for dinner - an amazing feast! - and then met up with Kitty, Joe and Justin and headed to the pub, where things got even more interesting. Like good canadians, we kept the beer flowing all night long until all 7 of us were sitting under our table (try it sometime - it's an interesting perspective), sharing jokes and stories like we were all old friends.
Nick drove us home at 2:30, via the word's crookedest street (Weeeeeee!) and his apartment where we climbed up to the roof for an awesome view of the city and the full moon.
Our whole gang of San Fran friends were just amazing people - the kind you feel like you've known forever when you've only just met them - and they made our time in the city a thousand times more exciting than it could have been with out them. Hats off to all you backroaders - you rock!
Today, Jodie and I woke up early (despite our late night) and tackled the city one last time. We were on a mission - taking in the famer's market, shopping for funky jewelry and clothes on Haight, and watching Chicago (the musical). We're exhausted tonight, but it was well worth it. We'll ride out of the city tomorrow, but we won't be saying goodbye for ever. This place is definitely worth another trip!
~Christine
Saturday, November 04, 2006
never trust a drunken sailor
We went out for drinks at an Irish pub on our first night in San Fran (not exactly a cultural experience, I know, but it was near our hostel and the beer was cold!). By chance, a sailor from the HMCS Vancouver learned that we were canadians, and sat down to chat with his fellow countrymen. It was an interesting converstation with a very drunken sailor, that ended with promises of a tour of the ship the next morning if we showed up at 11:30 with our passports.
Not ones to pass up on interesting opportunities, we were pier 23 on time (myself feeling slightly silly and wondering if there an equivalent word to hockey pucks or tire biters for girls that chase sailors and whether we would be seen as such), hoping our drunken sailor wasn't too drunk to remember us.
But alas, it was not to be. The working day was dragging on for the sailors, the ship wasn't secure and there was no sign of our sailor.
~Christine
We left disappointed, but laughing at thought that we're likely not the first women in San Fransisco to have our hearts broken by a drunken sailor.
Not ones to pass up on interesting opportunities, we were pier 23 on time (myself feeling slightly silly and wondering if there an equivalent word to hockey pucks or tire biters for girls that chase sailors and whether we would be seen as such), hoping our drunken sailor wasn't too drunk to remember us.
But alas, it was not to be. The working day was dragging on for the sailors, the ship wasn't secure and there was no sign of our sailor.
~Christine
We left disappointed, but laughing at thought that we're likely not the first women in San Fransisco to have our hearts broken by a drunken sailor.
Friday, November 03, 2006
If you can't beat it, join it
Our first day of biking through the rain was Thursday. We were well warned by local forcasters of the coming rain, but decided to push on to San Francisco out from the cover of Bodega Harbor Inn. With my rain coat hood up under my helmet I led out and very soon became one with the rain. Surprisingly I had one of my best bike days yet. As long as we were moving I was warm and well-happy, even. Noticing rivulets streaming down the bark of Arbutus trees, racing herds of scared cattle in adjacent fields, adjusting the temperature control pit-zips on my raincoat, singing rain songs. I laughed aloud at the absurdity as water gushed off my front tire, especially on the downhills, into my face. The fertalizer runnoff from this long awaited rain completed the missing nutrients in my recently organic diet. Despite the turnaround of a day that began with damp misery I'm hoping it doesn't rain in southern Cali.
blame it on bob
I know we're following the coast and that there aren't exactly any major mountain ranges to climb, but man is it hilly around here! Up and down, up and down ALL day, with not a single straight stretch to just cruise along. They call the section of road that we pedalled the other day Dramamine Drive. Sure, I can see how it might be exciting in a car and even cause some motion sickness with all its twists and turns and ups and downs, but on a bike, it just felt like plain old work.
And when the going gets tough, it's never because we're tired or sore or had too many beers the night before. Nope, it's always bob's fault. It's great to have someone along to blame the tough stuff on.
For instance, sometimes bob gains weight and has trouble getting over the steep hills. That's ususally right after a visit to one of California's amazing health food stores, where he can't seem to resist over-eating! And sometimes, on even steeper or longer hills, bob decides that he's had enough and he wants to head north again - quite a problem when he's attached to the rear end of your bike and you're trying to haul him south.
But things aren't all bad with bob. Once in a while, on sunny days with amazing ocean views, bob is fully cooperative and seems to really pull his own weight. Then, bob can be your best friend :)
~Christine
And when the going gets tough, it's never because we're tired or sore or had too many beers the night before. Nope, it's always bob's fault. It's great to have someone along to blame the tough stuff on.
For instance, sometimes bob gains weight and has trouble getting over the steep hills. That's ususally right after a visit to one of California's amazing health food stores, where he can't seem to resist over-eating! And sometimes, on even steeper or longer hills, bob decides that he's had enough and he wants to head north again - quite a problem when he's attached to the rear end of your bike and you're trying to haul him south.
But things aren't all bad with bob. Once in a while, on sunny days with amazing ocean views, bob is fully cooperative and seems to really pull his own weight. Then, bob can be your best friend :)
~Christine
Cool California Locals
I believe that yesterday could have been one of our most trying days yet, but it actually turned into one of our very best.
We woke up to pouring rain in Bodega Bay. The first 40km of our ride went by nice and fast as we were powered by leftover Halloween candy… We stopped for a quick lunch in Marshall. As we sat there shivering we were greeted by Rich who was also taking his lunch break; he told us about the upcoming roads, where to go for fewer hills, some cool sites, where he has cycled and of course the painted bridge. It was great to hear his enthusiasm and to have someone to distract us from our cold. Rich gave us one of his local maps and we were on the road again...
We reached our planned campsite early in the afternoon and decided that we would much rather stay on our bikes and push another 45km for San Francisco than spend the rest of the afternoon in a soggy crowded tent.
Ok, so almost to Fairfax we pulled over to the side of the road for a snack and a chat when Annie and Juliana pulled up. They were just making sure that we were ok. Annie is a super cool girl that has done tons of traveling and has guided bicycle tours all over the world. She gave us a few tips for the roads ahead and we were just leaving when Chris looks back at me and says, “That girl has jumped out of her car and is chasing us!” I guess Annie had decided that we didn’t look too threatening and generously invited us to her house for showers and a dry place to sleep and also out to live music with her and her friends that night in Fairfax. We decided not to climb the HUGE hill up to Annie’s, but that we would meet her later on.
A couple of minutes after talking to Annie, Rich honked as he was driving by on his way into town and stopped to see how we were doing. He told us that we were doing a great pace and wished us well on the rest of our journey. Somehow it almost seemed like we were beginning to be locals along this California highway…
We were completely soaked when we got into the cool little hippy town of Fairfax. We took over the laundry mat as our base to dry gear (and oursleves). After exploring some cute shops and eating a delicious burger, we met Annie at the Book Beat for some super fun music by locals Liam & Ronnie and then by Carsie Blanton from Philadelphia. It was a wonderful evening that was followed by an after party at The Scoop, the homemade ice cream shop in Fairfax. Oh, and courtesy of Liam, we are now known as “The Canadian Biker Chix” by the Fairfax locals.
~Jodie
We woke up to pouring rain in Bodega Bay. The first 40km of our ride went by nice and fast as we were powered by leftover Halloween candy… We stopped for a quick lunch in Marshall. As we sat there shivering we were greeted by Rich who was also taking his lunch break; he told us about the upcoming roads, where to go for fewer hills, some cool sites, where he has cycled and of course the painted bridge. It was great to hear his enthusiasm and to have someone to distract us from our cold. Rich gave us one of his local maps and we were on the road again...
We reached our planned campsite early in the afternoon and decided that we would much rather stay on our bikes and push another 45km for San Francisco than spend the rest of the afternoon in a soggy crowded tent.
Ok, so almost to Fairfax we pulled over to the side of the road for a snack and a chat when Annie and Juliana pulled up. They were just making sure that we were ok. Annie is a super cool girl that has done tons of traveling and has guided bicycle tours all over the world. She gave us a few tips for the roads ahead and we were just leaving when Chris looks back at me and says, “That girl has jumped out of her car and is chasing us!” I guess Annie had decided that we didn’t look too threatening and generously invited us to her house for showers and a dry place to sleep and also out to live music with her and her friends that night in Fairfax. We decided not to climb the HUGE hill up to Annie’s, but that we would meet her later on.
A couple of minutes after talking to Annie, Rich honked as he was driving by on his way into town and stopped to see how we were doing. He told us that we were doing a great pace and wished us well on the rest of our journey. Somehow it almost seemed like we were beginning to be locals along this California highway…
We were completely soaked when we got into the cool little hippy town of Fairfax. We took over the laundry mat as our base to dry gear (and oursleves). After exploring some cute shops and eating a delicious burger, we met Annie at the Book Beat for some super fun music by locals Liam & Ronnie and then by Carsie Blanton from Philadelphia. It was a wonderful evening that was followed by an after party at The Scoop, the homemade ice cream shop in Fairfax. Oh, and courtesy of Liam, we are now known as “The Canadian Biker Chix” by the Fairfax locals.
~Jodie
Thursday, November 02, 2006
Hippy Halloween!
Everyone in northern California got together and decided to dress as hippies for halloween. And they must have been planning it for a while, because they had long beards and even smelled like real hippies!
Just Kidding.
Even though we didn't end up going out for halloween, we didn't let the holiday go to waste. The night before, Jodie and Wendy bought a pumpkin and carved a cute little jack-o-lantern named Pablo that Jodie hauled along on top of her bob all day.
We were late in getting the idea to dress up on our bikes (the dates sort of mush together when you don't have a tight schedule), and when we got to Medocino on the morning of the 31, there were no costumes to be had. But there were big orage garbage bags with jack-o-lantern faces on them. So we bought 2, tied them around our necks and set off flapping down the highway.
It certainly got us a lot of attention, in the form of honks and waves from passers-by but the flapping got to be too much by mid-afternoon and we had to take them off. We decorated our campsite with them that night, and trick or treated at the only other occupied hiker-biker site in the campground, where we sat with our little pumpkin and a warm campfire and shared stories with Mary and Brent from Vancouver who are biking the same route as we are.
T'was a very hippy halloween!
~Christine
Just Kidding.
Even though we didn't end up going out for halloween, we didn't let the holiday go to waste. The night before, Jodie and Wendy bought a pumpkin and carved a cute little jack-o-lantern named Pablo that Jodie hauled along on top of her bob all day.
We were late in getting the idea to dress up on our bikes (the dates sort of mush together when you don't have a tight schedule), and when we got to Medocino on the morning of the 31, there were no costumes to be had. But there were big orage garbage bags with jack-o-lantern faces on them. So we bought 2, tied them around our necks and set off flapping down the highway.
It certainly got us a lot of attention, in the form of honks and waves from passers-by but the flapping got to be too much by mid-afternoon and we had to take them off. We decorated our campsite with them that night, and trick or treated at the only other occupied hiker-biker site in the campground, where we sat with our little pumpkin and a warm campfire and shared stories with Mary and Brent from Vancouver who are biking the same route as we are.
T'was a very hippy halloween!
~Christine
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